One of my mentors has been known to "not let grass grow under her feet." Like her, I live a high milage life. Every day I seek to gain awareness of the the amazing people on this Earth and the places I share with them. This is a platform to document and reflect on my experiences adventuring and learning with people I love.

Friday, February 24, 2023

resto

The Resto | Nov. 2022 | Derek, Lynette, Jackson, Molly, Hank, Jett


Jett getting a Tío-torial on the mower

    It was the introductory visit to The Resto for a wee lad named Jett.  On a crisp, cloudy morning, he hopped into the gator faster than a spooked pintail fleas a pond.  The ultimate Resto steward, Tío Derek, saddles up alongside the bundled-up Jett and shows our enthusiastic toddler all but how to change the oil.  A typical boy, he loves fast cars, trucks, and tractors.  He’ll be “driving” a ranch vehicle sooner than he’s truly able.  Soon he’ll realize that the beauty of the gator is not in the mechanics, but its ability to transport him to an amazing piece of land that supports native plants, animals, and their human people.
 
    Tia and I follow the gator across the field of tar-weed and sweet smelling but non-native Penny Royal. We approach the forest line which is now a three-point confluence between the pond, the field, and a freshly mowed, once overgrown but now open, white oak savannah.   Former Resto stewards like the late and great Art Johnson, his father, Tía, Jock, Jimmy D, Jeff and many others would be able to tell the difference in the new feel of the forest after being mowed with their eyes closed.  Voices and the sound of rustled leaves now reverberate off the vibrant lichen-covered oak trunks.  The understory is now wide open to welcome next spring’s new growth, and the lobed leaves dominate the forest canopy once again.
        

    “Will this be burned too?” I ask.
    “Ideally.  This is a very technical burn,” replies Tío.
    The evening prior, over Resto-grazed elk burgers, he relived the first intentional Resto burn in nearly a century.  The field burning recipe: one single day (with years of planning), a dozen fire experts including fire elders from the Calapooia, Siletz, Navajo, & Grande Ronde tribes, an eon of wisdom, and a deep trust in the cultural and ecological burning practices of natives yields the burning of three small fields. 
    “13,000 years of managing the oak savannah of the Willamette Valley with fire,” Tío reminds me.  There is a lot wrapped up in that sentence for him.  That’s enough time for species to co-evolve in the presence of regular field burning – native peoples, oaks, grasses, camus, insects, deer, elk, roots, and fungi all benefit from a blackened reset. 
        
Tia & Mol walking near the woods pond
Tia & Mol walking near the woods pond

    Back to the confluence, where we skirt the pond to the south side duck blind.  Jett sees it and finds interest in pulling the string attached to the decoys.  We explain their purpose.  Tío soaks his boots to show Jett the winged decoy, simultaneously showing us his dedication to providing a memorable first experience at the Resto.  We zip passed the pump-house, where 25 years ago, Tío and Boppy warmed my frozen bones after a cold and soggy January hunt sitting in the blind.  That may have been my first time to the Resto, memorable indeed.  I should have taken their advice and eaten breakfast.  Tomorrow, when we head out for our early hunt, I will.


    A massive gaggle of thousands of geese wreak havoc on the adjacent field, which provides grass seed for sale on the ag market.   Only a small berm separates us from the neighbors field – it’s nice to see private lands open to one another for easier migration and daily movement of animals.  Hank kicks up the geese who produce a black and gray cackling cloud and who showcase their generations of choreographed community flight by circling once and landing 100 yards further along the field.  Jett cackles with joy. 
    On our way back to the shop, we pay our respects to the elk carcasses, whose flesh and blood have nourished ours.  We stop at the field blind which is near Luci’s willow, a distinguishable patch of sinewy stalks where she hunted a duck years prior.  We clean the field blind of frogs, snakes, and unfortunate rodents.  Jett beams with excitement as the frog leaps onto his lapel.  I believe his first time at the Resto will illicit more comfortable memories than mine did, but mostly, I hope that they will connect him to this land that has nourished so much life.

Admiring the frog


Jett honoring the elk carcasses


Returning to the warehouse with smiles

Sunday, March 15, 2020

The wonders of cycling in Ha Giang

Background: The pitch was perfect for a cruiser descent with one of my ultimate homies, Keaton.  No pedaling or breaking required as we slammed past massive fir and hemlock trees, and stellar clear views of the Cascade River valley and the opposite ridge.  We earned this 20 mile descent the day before

The year was 2017 and Keaton and I had ridden up to the pass with his then partner sagging in his truck.  We camped on the only flat space available near the trail head and in the morning we hiked the couple of miles to the pass.  After the hike, the ride down was worth every second of the eternal  climb.  This was our first super fun longer ride together but not to be our last. 

Keat and I have been riding bikes together since we were kids.  Once we fled a truck following us in the alleys near his old house on 29th.  Another time I broke my ankle riding my dads old mountain bike in the foothills where Keat and friends were building a bike park.  In high school we'd ride to school together almost every day of senior year.  Boise is made for bikes.

Keat and I have been the tightest of homies since grade school.  Our friendship was fortified by a 6-month stint living together in Bellingham in 2013.  For my birthday this year, Molly planned to invite Keat over to Vietnam for a cycling trip.   We were hyped on cycling the Ha Giang loop; a 4-5 day tour through the northern mountains and Hmong villages with enough elevation gain to choke up even Sir Edmund Hillary.  The plans were coming together, until it all fell apart due to coronavirus.

First day near the top of pass to Quan Ba.

Preparations: On Saturday March 7th, our school declared Spring Break 2020 had just started, three weeks before originally scheduled.  After seeing Molly and Jett off to the airport for their Vietnam exodus (another story to come), I had only Sunday to prepare for a solo trip to Ha Giang, salvaging spring break and intentionally planning a trip which would require massive physical effort, limited time on my phone, and away from my now lonely house.  So I rode around Hanoi looking for bus rides, padded shorts, tubes, racks, bags, and basic repair gear.  Thanks to Matty, Dave, and Liz, my cycling buddies here in Hanoi, who lent me critical pieces of gear.  I spent Sunday night packing my bags, re-rapping the handle bars, and shooting the breeze with Matty and Chad.  I was anxious because I had never been on a multi-day cycling tour, I had an interview at 6am on Friday morning for which I needed wifi, and I was playing in a massive Minsk football match scheduled for Saturday.  So I had minimal room for errors.  Hundreds of people motorbike these roads, but few people cycle them.  I got this, right?

Night before preparations

By the Numbers: 5 days, 24 hrs of riding, 12 hours on a bus, 370 riding kms, 9,000 m elevation gain, 3+ kilograms of friend rice, fruit, and banh mis, 8 beers, 7 flat tires, 1 haircut, 3 Canadians, and 1 stoked rider.

By the Letters:  As I mentioned, I was stoked, but a bit anxious - about my gear, riding alone, poor brakes, and missing my end-of-week obligations.

From the moment I clipped in my anxiousness subsided.  I pedaled from the bus up the valley on a hot sunny afternoon, feeling exactly where I needed to be.  I smiled to the locals as I passed and gave ma-halos to the passing motorists.  I could here the birds by the river and pedaled hard against the slight incline.  This was just what I needed after a week of sadness saying goodbye to Molly and Jett.

Quan Ba - Heaven's Gate

The first night after my 50km afternoon in the hot sun, finished by a brutal 3pm, 800 m climb, I landed in Quan Ba, a small town and a common stop for people after a half day ride in the Ha Giang province.  After cleaning up at a hotel (Van Duy) off the main street, I settled into a cozy Vietnamese restaurant around sunset.  The grandmother/owner drew me into her restaurant with her forceful yet friendly tone.  So I ponied up next to a small group of travelers, hoping to spark some conversation.

Chin Khoan Ramp - Literally switch backs within switchbacks

What I discovered next solidified my acceptance to traveling alone on this trip - the travelers weren't interested in me, but the host lady and I kicked it off.  Within 10 minutes I'd nearly exhausted my supply of Viet language, telling her about my family, my son, my experiences in Vietnam.  I asked about her life, her business, and her elbow she had injured after recently slipping in the kitchen.  I realized that traveling alone allowed me to connect with the locals in a way I otherwise wouldn't have had I been with friends.  Touring with my friends wasn't an option, so discovering the connections I made was able to make with Vietnamese provided a different yet equally strong memory.



Beautiful place to change a flat

Three nights later while finishing "the loop," I returned to Quan Ba after completing an amazing 100km day and immediately sought out another evening at the same restaurant - HOAN HAO.  The hostess' grandchildren were playing around and I was able to talk with them about cycling, football, and food.  I recognized and applauded the young boy's special relationship with his younger sister.  I told him I have two sisters and how important it is to be nice to younger siblings.  Later that night after dinner around 8pm, I walked him and his sister to the hairdresser 500m down the road and we all got haircuts and hair washes.  They waited for me and I waited for them.  On the way back, I bought us all kit kats and the boy mentioned how much fun we were having.  I agreed, smiled, and shared my genuine enjoyment with these two before sending them back to grandma for the night.

Haircut buddies

In between my nights at Hoan Hao, I met two other amazing people, Angie and Alex.  I met them, along with young Ediour, at the top of a forked pass heading down to Dong Van after 90 kms at 4:30pm.  I had planned on turned left, and they right, until they convinced me to follow them down the valley to Dong Van instead of on my own up another grueling climb to a remote home stay.  I'm so grateful I followed them for so many reasons.  First, I would have been riding into the dark.  Second, I spent the next two days with them, leapfrogging up and down to Lung Cu, the northern pole of Vietnam, eating amazing meals together, and sharing travel stories, party stories, and laughing laughing laughing.  Both nights of dining with them, not a single one of us looked at our phones - we just ate, drank, and were merry.  I knew they were extra special when, on their day off, they woke up with me at 6:30 to see me off on my journey.

Montreal mountain folk friends

The riding on the trip was incredible.  Massive uphills, switch-backed downhills, and a few sweeping descents that cut through the sides of a mountains like a low angled scar.  The sweat on the climbs reminded me of why I decided to do this - I love to push myself physically in the mountains, something I've loved for a while.  The small peaks rose out of bigger based mountains and pocked the landscape with tree-covered karsts.  The landscape and the relief were undeniably attractive - that's why people go there, including me.  Yet now that I'm home, I find myself sharing most the interactions I had with others.  For those who travel alone a lot, this is old news.  But for me, I don't, so I appreciated these unexpected encounters.

1 km to go!  

The final day was a ride from Heaven's Gate back to Ha Giang city.  40 kms of absolutely cruiser downhill.  Most fun I've ever had on a bicycle was this morning.  I had just finished an interview, I was rested and revitalized.  I was blasting tunes, dancing on the pedals, and waving like a fool to all  the merchants.  It reminded me of hooting and hollering with Keat down from Cascade Pass three years ago.  Next time brotha!


Showered, fed, rested, and happy. 

I'm already revamping my bike set up for more weekend rides around Hanoi. In my final months here I'm starting to take Vietnamese classes again.  I'm hoping my bicycle and my weak yet improving language skills will help me soak up these final moments with the lovely people in this beautiful country.

Monday, January 27, 2020

Current Interests: Music, Documentaries, & Reading

My favorite activities these days are walking with my son on the beach, reading with my wife, playing for the Minsk football team, teaching and learning about the environment, and cycling with friends.  In my downtime however, I find interests from a variety of sources.Short stories and reviews give context to the music, documentaries, books and websites I have come to enjoy.

Music

The Cat Empire - Stolen Diamonds

This Australian sextet absolutely rips.  A big band style international tastes bring lots of energy to the listener.  Their older albums are also very good with some ultra classics on nearly every one.  I check tour dates every year in hopes our paths cross.  2020? The track The Chariot below - with a badass trumpet and a strong political message - is on my all time top 20 songs and my rock climbing theme song.

Anderson .Paak & the Free Nationals - Tiny Desk Concert

I posted this video months ago, but I like it so much, I have to share again.  Some amazingly soothing riffs and seriously happy and confident presence.


Felly

This young rapper has a nasty beats and super natural flow.   Great hip-hop, especially from his newest album Surf Trap.  Felly is a nerd of music and spends a lot of time creating new sounds.  

Mumford and Sons - Woman

This album is similar to the others and I enjoy most of the songs.  Mumford always gives me solice when I leave a place I love, or people I love.

A few of the most important women in my life had a rough 2019.  My dear Amuma Rosie died in late October of complications with pancreatic cancer.  I didn't get to talk with her in person on on the phone after her diagnosis.  They day she passed away, I listened to this song with my wife and son on the roof of our apartment crying watching the sunset.  When I returned home to Boise this winter to be with my step mother Barbara, father, and family, I listened to this song with her and opened the emotional flood gates

Rodrigo y Gabriela - Mettavolution

The newest album by this ultra-talented, dedicated Mexican acoustic guitar duo is fire.  I also quite enjoyed hearing them talk about their path and listening to a few custom cuts on the Rich Roll podcast here, which I also enjoy. 

Maggie Rogers - Heard it in a Past Life

A new female artist with a Knack for popular hits and a bangin' voice.  Molly, her sister Kate, and I saw Maggie live in Portland last summer.  Music was good, yet her stage presence leaves room for improvement.  


Documentaries

The Salt of Earth

On my top three all time documentary list.  Sebastio Salgado takes pictures that speak 10,000 words.  His dedication to photography that evoke emotions about so many important stories is amazing.  Expensive to watch, and recommended on a big screen, but worth every second.  

Image result for Salt of the Earth

A Man Named Pearl

This 2006 documentary about a man name Pearl Fryer with a great eye for garden aesthetics.  He moved to a predominately white neighborhood where his neighbors were nervous he wouldn't keep up with his yard, so over 30 years he slowly made one of the most beautiful gardens on Earth. 

Clive Davis - The Soundtrack of our Lives 

I love documentaries about music producers.  Clive Davis has a talent for finding and developing talent which gave hundreds of millions of people joy and inspiration in watching and listening.  Available on Netflix, in Vietnam at least.  

Reading

Nautilus - Science Connected

This science based magazine delivers big picture articles that connect ideas across many topics.  An issue is published every month, with a new chapter coming out each week which looks at the issue from a number of different angles.  Downside - only two free articles per month.  

When Breath Becomes Air by Paul Kalanithi

Dr. Paul wrote this book while dying of brain cancer.  The first part of this short read comes from Yet another timely read which struck hard amidst the nasty brain tumor that took my step moms life in December 2019.


Where the Crawdads Sing by Delia Owens

Very popular murder mystery love story with a connection to nature make a great fictional page turner.